Budget guide

Campervan Electrical System Cost: A Full Budget Breakdown

The electrical system is one of the biggest single expenses in a campervan conversion — and one of the easiest to get wrong. Spend too little and you will be hunting for hook-ups every other night. Over-spec and you have sunk money into capacity you never use. This guide breaks down every component cost, from cables and fuses to lithium batteries and solar panels, across three realistic budget tiers so you can plan your build with confidence.

1. Total cost at a glance

Before diving into each component, here is the big picture. Prices are mid-2026 European street prices (taxes included) for a self-build. Labour is excluded — most van lifers do their own install.

Budget tierBatterySolarChargerInverterWiring & miscTotal
Basic100Ah AGM200W + PWMFuses & cable€400–800
Mid-range200Ah LiFePO4400W + MPPT30A DC-DC1000W pure sineFull kit€1,800–2,800
Premium2×200Ah LiFePO4600W+ MPPT50A DC-DC2000W+ pure sineFull kit + monitor€3,500–5,500

The range within each tier depends on brand choice (Victron sits at the top, budget brands like Renogy or Liontron at the bottom) and whether you buy as a kit or piece by piece.

2. Battery bank — the biggest cost centre

The battery bank typically eats 30–45% of your total electrical budget. The three technologies available have vastly different price points:

Type100Ah 12V200Ah 12VUsable capacityCycle lifeWeight
AGM€100–180€180–32050% (50/100Ah)500–800 cycles~30 kg
GEL€130–200€220–38050% (50/100Ah)700–1000 cycles~32 kg
LiFePO4€350–600€700–1,20080% (80/160Ah)3,000–5,000 cycles~14 kg

The sticker price of lithium is 3–4× higher, but the cost per usable Ah over the battery’s lifetime is actually lower. A 200Ah LiFePO4 at €900 with 3,000 cycles delivers 480,000 usable Ah over its life. A 200Ah AGM at €250 with 600 cycles delivers 60,000 usable Ah — you would need to buy eight AGMs to match one lithium.

Rule of thumb: if you plan to use your van more than 60 nights a year, lithium pays for itself within 2–3 years through longer life and deeper discharge.

3. Solar panels & controller

Solar is your free daily recharge — the panels themselves are relatively cheap; the controller is where the price varies.

ComponentBudget optionMid-rangePremium
100W rigid panel€60–90€80–120€100–150 (PERC cells)
200W rigid panel€100–150€130–180€160–220
Flexible panels (per 100W)€80–180 — shorter lifespan, consider rigid if you have the roof space
PWM controller (30A)€20–50
MPPT controller (20–30A)€100–170 (Renogy, EPEver)€130–250 (Victron SmartSolar)

Typical totals: 200W + PWM = €120–200. 400W + MPPT = €350–600. 600W + MPPT = €500–900.

Mounting hardware (brackets, cable glands, sealant) adds €30–80 regardless of the array size. Do not forget this line item — it catches many first-time builders.

MPPT vs PWM: above 200W, the 20–30% efficiency gain of MPPT over PWM easily pays for the price difference. Read our full MPPT vs PWM comparison for the details.

4. DC-DC charger (alternator charging)

A DC-DC (battery-to-battery) charger lets you charge your leisure battery from the engine alternator while driving. This is essential for winter travel and cloudy regions where solar alone will not keep up.

ChargerRatingPrice rangeNotes
Renogy DCC30S30A€100–140Budget, integrated MPPT
Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-3030A€170–220Bluetooth, adaptive charging
Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-5050A€350–420For large banks (400Ah+)
Sterling B2B 126060A€250–320Popular in the UK market

Most mid-range builds pair a 30A DC-DC charger with solar. A 30A charger pushes roughly 30Ah per hour of driving — so a 3-hour drive day adds ~90Ah to your bank. That is more than a full day’s recharge for many setups.

5. Inverter (12V DC to 230V AC)

An inverter lets you run mains appliances: laptop chargers, coffee machines, hair dryers. You need one only if you have 230V devices — many builds skip it entirely and run everything on 12V/USB.

InverterRatingPrice rangeNotes
Budget pure sine (no-name)600–1000W€80–150Fine for laptops, limited warranty
Renogy 1000W pure sine1000W€150–220Good mid-range choice
Victron Phoenix 12/12001200W€300–400Premium build quality
Victron MultiPlus 12/20002000W€900–1,200Inverter/charger combo, shore power passthrough

For a detailed sizing guide, see our article on choosing the right inverter size.

6. Wiring, fuses & distribution

The “invisible” costs that first-time builders always underestimate. Wiring and protection components typically add €150–400 to a build.

ItemPrice rangeNotes
Battery cable (35–50mm², 2m pair)€25–50Between battery and fuse box / inverter
Solar cable (4–6mm², 10m)€15–30Roof to controller
12V wiring (2.5mm², 20m)€15–25Lighting, USB sockets, 12V outlets
Fuse box (6–12 way)€20–50Blade fuse panel
ANL / MEGA fuse + holder€10–25Main battery protection
Bus bars (positive + negative)€15–30Clean distribution point
Battery disconnect switch€10–25Safety isolation
Cable glands, connectors, heat shrink€20–50MC4, ring terminals, Anderson plugs
DIN rail / mounting hardware€15–30For a tidy install

Pro tip: buy cable in bulk rolls rather than pre-cut lengths. A 10m roll of 6mm² costs €20–30; the same length bought as four pre-made cables with lugs can cost €60+.

7. Battery monitor

A battery monitor (shunt-based) tells you exactly how many amp-hours remain, your charge/discharge rate, and time to empty. Not strictly essential, but highly recommended for any system above 200Ah.

MonitorPrice rangeNotes
Basic voltage meter€5–15Shows voltage only — rough state-of-charge estimate
Victron BMV-712€140–180Coulomb counter, Bluetooth, the industry standard
Victron SmartShunt€100–130Same accuracy as BMV-712, phone app only (no display)
Renogy 500A shunt monitor€60–90Budget alternative with built-in display

8. Three budget tiers compared

Here is what each tier actually looks like as a complete parts list, with realistic mid-range pricing.

Basic (€400–800) — Weekend warrior

Covers lighting, phone/laptop USB charging and a 12V compressor fridge. No mains appliances. Good for weekend trips and fair-weather touring.

Mid-range (€1,800–2,800) — Extended touring

Handles a compressor fridge, laptop, lighting, water pump, diesel heater and the occasional coffee machine or blender. Comfortable for weeks of off-grid touring.

Premium (€3,500–5,500) — Full-time van life

Runs everything including an induction hob, air conditioning (in short bursts), washing machine or microwave. Designed for year-round, full-time living with rarely needing a hook-up.

Build your exact budget in 3 minutes

Enter your appliances, battery and solar setup — OffroadWatt shows your daily consumption, autonomy in days, and which components match your needs.

Open the free calculator

9. Where to save (and where not to)

Not every euro matters equally. Here is where cutting corners is fine, and where it will cost you more in the long run:

Good places to save

Do not cut corners on

10. Hidden costs to budget for

Beyond the components themselves, factor in these often-forgotten expenses:

Frequently asked questions

How much does a basic campervan electrical system cost?

A basic 12V campervan electrical system with a single 100Ah AGM battery, 200W of solar, a PWM controller and basic wiring costs between €400 and €800. This covers lighting, phone charging and a 12V fridge, but not heavy appliances like a coffee machine or hair dryer.

Is lithium worth the extra cost for a campervan?

Yes, in most cases. A 200Ah lithium battery costs roughly €800–1,200 compared to €200–400 for an equivalent AGM setup, but it lasts 4–5 times longer (3,000+ cycles vs 500–800), delivers 80% usable capacity vs 50%, and weighs half as much. Over the battery’s lifetime, lithium is cheaper per cycle.

What is the most expensive part of a campervan electrical system?

The battery bank is almost always the single most expensive component, typically accounting for 30–45% of the total electrical budget. For a lithium setup, the battery alone can cost €800–2,000. Solar panels are the second largest cost, followed by the inverter and DC-DC charger.

Can I install a campervan electrical system myself?

Yes, many van lifers do their own electrical installation. A DIY install saves €500–1,500 in labour costs. However, you need to be comfortable with crimping cables, calculating wire gauges and understanding fuse placement. If you are not confident, hiring a professional for the battery-to-fusebox core and doing the lighter 12V runs yourself is a good compromise.